Reviews of four sushiyas1 in Tokyo. Disclaimer: sushi ratings are more scrupulous than normal.
No. 1 ・ いつつ (itsutsu)
Location📍Japan, 〒104-0061 Tokyo, Chuo City, Ginza, 3 Chome−12−8 伏谷ビル 1F
Rating
Price - around １５０００円
Notes - Ingredients are A+. Style is traditional, i.e. no frills. Good atmosphere for drinking and chatting.
No. 2 ・ 一㐂 (ichiki)
Location📍〒104-0061 Tokyo, Chuo City, Ginza, 5 Chome−4−15 Nishigo.Building, 4F
Rating
Price - around ２５０００円
Notes - It was the first time I had the urge to take a picture of the itamaesan (eng: chef) and his workspace which I later realized was because all the other sushiyas I had been to had a raised platform between the counter and the workspace which had the functional purpose of being a serving area, but also fenced off an otherwise unobstructed view of the chef's domain. At the time, the simple feeling of seeing something unique and unusual compelled me to shoot the photo, for which I was immediately and politely reprimanded by the server that quickly interjected herself with a soft "sumimasen, [you aren't allowed to film the chef]".
Notes cont. - In terms of flavor, everything was absolutely delicious. The uniqueness didn't end with the carpentry; it carried over to the food. It felt like every piece had a story behind it. The stories had the same beginning and end — from the plate to my stomach — but how vastly they were different from one another made me realize that the meaning of life, like the sushi, is not about its creation or death but everything that happens in between.
Notes cont. 3/3 - Especially with the nigiri pieces, it was like reading five short stories, each interesting in its own way but also leaving you wondering what else might've happened. It was the epitome of "the perfect bite", over and over again. Their creative use of wasabi and soy sauce alternatives, like black rock salt, mustard, and kelp, was intriguing.
No. 3 ・ 光琳 (kōrin)
Location📍〒150-0047 Tokyo, Shibuya, Kamiyamacho 11-10 梅澤ビル B1
Rating
Price - around １２０００円
Notes - A framed piece of paper that reads "Michelin 2024" is visibly displayed at eye level on the front door, right above two other ones from each of the two previous years, 2023 and 2022. This place is a modest sushiya with only counter seats for around 11 people at a time. The big, hand-written menu on the wall had about 40 items, whereas the standing paper menus at the table had less, which was indication that the big board had additional items depending on the catch of the day. When we got there, a family of three and a couple had already been seated, and during our time there, another couple came in as well as two solo customers, one of whom left after a few pieces. From one end of the counter to the other, it seemed like everyone was ordering ala-carte, which is what my father also told the restaurant when we walked in. The room was quiet so the customers talked considerately, and every so often a customer called for the attention of the itamaesan to put in a new order that became the main sound of the room. Although it was already in its third year of Michelin Star status, this place felt like a neighborhood sushi bar. It was as if they hadn't changed anything about their business since receiving the status, and put up the plaques on the door because someone told them to.
No. 3 ・ 小野寺息子 (onodera-musuko)
Location📍〒150-0043 Tokyo, Shibuya, Dogenzaka, 1 Chome−3−3 Kusumoto Bld., Ｂ１階
Rating
Price - around １００００円
Notes - A sushiya that is not Omakase, not conveyor belt, but perfectly in between, 小野寺息子 in Shibuya is a sister restaurant started by the people at the upscale sushi restaurant, 小野寺. Here you get the quality of high-end Omakase, but the freedom of choice of the conveyor belt system. The quality is ensured by making pieces to order, and the absence of a conveyor belt eliminates any chance of pieces going stale. On the other hand, it takes the good parts from the conveyer belt style places, like using a digital ordering system via a touchscreen tablet with pictures and translations so that (1) non-Japanese-speaking customers can enjoy the experience and (2) each customer has full transparency over the tab total at any point of the meal. There are about ten seats at the bar and more at auxiliary tables. It is some of the best quality sushi I've had. It won't be cheap; 14 or so pieces in variety will come out to around 10000円.
1 The "ya" in "sushiya" means something like roof/building/shop, and is used like this as a suffix. Other examples are ramenya (serves ramen) and honya (bookstore).